Thus the internal silent screams.
|this face about sums it up, and is rather on point|
I am using the JP Ryan pattern for half-boned stays for a fashionable shape, because it was the only stays pattern I found with straps. However, I am using the instructions from Hallie Larkin's stays pattern (which some of the cohort are using for their stays) for more historically accurate construction. Following this method, I assembled each piece individually, tacked down the seam allowance, and whip stitched the pieces together. Then I assembled a separate lining layer and am stitching that by hand to the inside, hiding all the seam messiness, before adding lacing holes and binding the edges. I machine-sewed the boning channels but am doing most of the rest by hand. This seemed reasonable when I started, but now that I'm freaking out about time I realize I probably should have done the modern (faster!) assembly system and saved the more accurate construction for a future pair...whoops. They seem to fit and be pretty comfortable--the horizontal boning on the front seems to offer some extra support, which is great as I am rather large-bosomed. I can't wait to actually lace them on and see!
|stay pieces cut and marked (using heat-dissolving Frixion pens)|
|the assembled stays before I finished trimming the bones (plastic zip ties)|
|the stays and lining ready to be attached|
My shift is cotton muslin and was constructed using the shift in Costume Close-Up as a guide. I found insanely wide (90 inches!) fabric by chance, so I was able to cut the main body piece strategically with the selvage as the hem. Hooray for not having to hem! I included the skirt gore in my main body piece, as my fabric could accommodate the larger width, and made gussets for the first time.
This project ended up being a breeze (hooray!), so I was done in an afternoon. That also meant I finished my shift in March, and could use it as my HSM entry for the "protection" challenge.
|my first gusset!|
Then I was feeling so great about my progress I shifted gears for a couple of days to make a Regency chemisette...and then I got sick and couldn't sew for a week. Now I'm better and trying to get back on track. Cross your fingers for me! I have a feeling May is going to be full of late nights.
At least it will give me a good excuse to catch up on television...