Saturday, June 30, 2012

Ships Ahoy!

on the U. S.S. Constitution, better known as "Old Ironsides"
This week (through July 4th) is Boston Harborfest, and this year is especially cool because the week coincides with the city's Navy Week and some of the War of 1812 bicentennial events.  Today my family and I headed to the Charlestown Navy Yard to tour some of the visiting tall ships as well as our own U.S.S.Constitution, nicknamed "Old Ironsides" since its time as a navy leader during the War of 1812.  Naturally, boats and history mean sailor dresses, so I trotted out a favorite that I made last summer.
I worked on my victory rolls as well, with limited success.  I'm still not totally happy with them (so I'll just have to keep practicing), but they looked pretty good when I left the house this morning.  Unfortunately, they weren't as wind-proof as I'd hoped, despite the copious amounts of hairspray, and the harbor winds wreaked havoc on my temporarily-straightened hair. Luckily, we'd already taken pictures!

the U.S.S. Consitution

looking over the prow
I made the dress last summer as an experiment in pattern drafting, and it is one of my favorite things to wear because it is super comfortable and also nautical.  I think I need to invest some time making a few more sailor dresses this summer so I have some variety and this one can have a break! I have a couple of patterns in mind and am planning to raid the patriotic fabric bins on sale after July 4th.  I already have a parasol to play with-I made it to match this dress last summer.  It was an easy 1-day project and I highly recommend recovering parasols as a cute accessory for summer events...hats are nice, but sometimes I want a little extra sun coverage (and sometimes my hair doesn't fit inside a hat, like today).

the view from the Navy Yard
a great vintage billboard in the yard--make sure to wear your safety shoes!

I've had a lot of friends visiting this summer (and more to come), so I've spent more time than usual doing touristy things like the Freedom Trail.  The great thing about this is that I feel like I've been communing with the history of the area, and remembering why I love it so much.  I've also been learning some new things!  For example, did you know that it takes 8 days to sail a tall ship (a modern one that is, with engines) from Denmark to Boston?  Two of the visiting tall ships were from Denmark and Norway, and their crew members were full of information.

from the KNM Thor, the Norwegian ship
   Also, did you know that the original figurehead on the Constitution was Hercules?  A later one was President Andrew Jackson, but he was so unpopular in Boston that the figurehead's head was sawed off in the night! You can see the Jackson head and a model of the Hercules figurehead at the Constitution Museum, which is totally darling and fully interactive.
One of the battles "Old Ironsides" lead was the defeat of the British ship the H.M.S. Guerriere during the War of 1812.  That bicentennial will be celebrated this August, and I will be present and dancing! I'm looking forward to it, and this weekend was a great way to motivate some more regency sewing. I learned a lot, and I look forward to exploring more of the summer's naval events!


Saturday, June 23, 2012

A Quick Hello

I've been neglecting you! For this I apologize...but I do have good reason.  I've had a busy month since graduation--I've recently gotten a job (and will therefore be living in MA for the next few years, hooray!), and begun the frantic Newport sewing binge before the dance week at the end of July, not to mention I've been hosting visiting dance friends, working, and adventuring!

Today I performed with the Commonwealth Vintage Dancers at the Salem Athenaeum before dashing off with a friend to finally see Brave, the movie I've been so excited about! I highly recommend it--the kids in the audience with us all seemed to love it, but the plot is really more adult, and so even if you don't have a young friend to bring with you it's worth seeing.
I'll do a more in-depth post about my skirt and hat soon, but I made the hat over spring break as a millinery experiment and the skirt before the centennial celebration at Orchard House.  I hadn't taken any good pictures until today, so now I can actually show you!  In the meantime, here is a brief peak into how I end up with pictures of my clothes...it's a long, awkward process.


Thursday, June 14, 2012

Radical Stockings: Tales of the Jazz Age (3)

I'm a little late to the stocking party (see posts here and here), but while reading May Day in Tales of the Jazz Age this sibling argument between socialist-party-worker Henry and his sister, I had to investigate myself.  While sitting on his desk, Edith and Henry have the following conversation:

"I suppose you think I'm a --a waster. Sort of the World's Worst Butterfly."
Henry laughed....
She paused, " --but somehow I began thinking how absolutely different the party I'm on is from --from all your purposes. It seems sort of --of incongruous, doesn't it? --me being at a party like that, and you over here working for a thing that'll make that sort of party impossible ever any more, if your ideas work."
...Her feet, which had been idly swinging, stopped and her voice dropped a note.
..."You're wearing beautiful stockings," he interrupted. "What on earth are they?"
"They're embroidered," she replied, glancing down. "Aren't they cunning?" She raised her skirts and uncovered slim, silk-sheathed calves. "Or do you disapprove of silk stockings?"


Who could ever disapprove of silk stockings?  Well, when the flappers started rolling them down and wearing shorter skirts...a lot of people.

Girls with rolled stockings, 1926
I decided to have a look at 1920s images of stockings while thinking of Edith, and I found some I really liked!  Not many of them are exactly what I pictured as an embroidered silk stocking, but there are still a lot of fun.  What do you think? Will you be rolling your stockings for Gatsby events this year?

staged image, 1920s, via pinterest
rolled stockings and shiny shoes!
1920 embroidered stockings- for sale here!
1920s ad for stockings in many colors
Red! open-weave stockings, 1910-25 via MFA

stockings with BIRDS! 1920-30 via MFA
Kitty Lee with her boyfriend's picture on her stockings

Tuesday, June 5, 2012

Class of 1934

My family is firmly divided on dessert.  I am on the fruit side of the line, but my brother is on the chocolate side with my mother.  Because my most common excuse to bake is family functions, I am always on the lookout for delicious chocolate recipes.  A couple of years ago at my library's annual book sale I picked up a copy of Hershey's 1934 Cookbook, a modern re-print of the original 1934 chocolate recipe collection by Hershey's Chocolate.

These recipes need a delicate hand and a lot of adjustment, because my oven is a lot more powerful than a 1930s oven and I have to check these cakes often or they dry out quickly.  However while these recipes take a little more attention than many of my others, I love the vintage charm in these cakes--someday I will have an excuse to make the truly fabulous depression Potato Cocoa Cakes--and the unique combinations are certainly crowd-pleasers!
I'm getting better with each cake I bake from this book, and this cake was easily the best yet.  Friday was my brother's high school graduation, so this cake was his request: chocolate cake with chocolate icing and more chocolate! 

two of the layers cooling

The cake is the Demon Cake and Bitter Chocolate Frosting recipes from 1934 Cookbook with a buttermilk glaze on each cake layer based on the recipe from The Bake Sale Cookbook by Sally Sampson.  

The Demon Cake is a buttermilk chocolate cake with separated eggs (something common in the cakes in this book): the yolks are blended into the batter while the whites are whipped to stiff peaks and then folded in at the end.  This makes the cake really fluffy and light while preserving the intensity of using unsweetened chocolate.  

stacking the layers

The buttercream is a mix of coco powder and unsweetened chocolate squares.  I also used a few drops of my coveted Mexican vanilla (such a great gift!) and a pinch of cinnamon to give the chocolate some depth.  I wanted to keep this looking classically homemade (even though my brother is the only person I know who actually eats fondant) so the garnish is just a shaved Hershey bar (I had to honor the original!) and a sliced fresh strawberry.  I was so pleased with the way this cake came out-Demon Cake is definitely on the win list!

the full caboodle


Wednesday, May 30, 2012

The Great Sparkle Quest

As you may remember from this picture, I wear sparkles (usually a tiara) when I need a mood boost.  I also shop for sparkles when I need a mood boost, and in all of these ebay exploits I keep my eyes posted for kokoshnik tiaras.

Growing up I heard many fabulous stories about my family in Eastern Europe and their trials immigrating to America.  Maybe it's just in my blood, or maybe it's because of all those stories, but there's something about the Russian monarchs that really fascinates me.  It might also have something to do with how much I loved the animated movie Anastasia too.

Anyways, while I am always on the lookout for sparkles I can wear with various ballgowns, someday I would love to own at least one tiara in the kokoshnik style.  
Kokoshnik refers to the traditional headdress for Russian married women, which was worn into the 19th century.  Historically the kokoshnik is a decorated crescent (sometimes rounded and sometimes pointed, with appliques, embroideries, precious stones, etc.) tied with ribbon at the back in a bow.  The specific design for each kokoshnik was associated with a particular region of Russia (called gyberniya) and it was at times actually possible to tell where a woman was from based on her particular kokoshnik.

traditional dress of a wealthy peasant from the early 19th century

Ballerina Anna Pavlova in traditional dress c. 1920s
Naturally, during the cultural revival of the nineteenth century that meant the monarchs needed their own 'regional' version, which eventually took on the form of a tiara.  
The imperial family of Tsar Nicholas II in kokoshniks--see the similarity in shape to the tiaras?


The most famous of these are fringe tiaras: the George III Tiara (aka The Russian Fringe Tiara) and the Russian Kokoshnik Tiara.  Both are made of graduated stiff rows of diamonds (which is where the term fringe comes from).  
George III Tiara

The George III Tiara was originally commissioned in 1830 from diamonds in the collection previously belonging to King George III.  Worn by Queen Victoria multiple times throughout her reign, this tiara is still worn by the current Queen Elizabeth II.

Kokoshnik Tiara

The Russian Kokoshnik was an anniversary gift to Alexandra, Princess of Wales in 1888 on behalf of the peeresses of the kingdom.  The princess had specifically requested a kokoshnik tiara, as they were already quite fashionable.  In fact, the Empress of Russia, Maria Feodorovna (Alexandra's sister) also favored this style.

Empress Maria in her kokoshnik fringe, 1882
While the fringe tiaras are probably the most iconic of the kokoshnik tiaras, this is by far not the only type.  Here are some other favorites of mine!

Empress Consort Alexandra in Romanov Pearl Drop Tiara,  1896

Romanov Drop Pearl Tiara

Maria, Queen of Yugoslavia c. early 1920s

Maria's emerald and diamond kokoshnik, which originally belonged to Tsarina Maria Alexandrovna in the mid 19th century 

Empress Maria Feodorovna (formerly Dagmar) while Empress Consort, 1874

black diamond kokoshnik of Queen Maria of Romania

Westminster Kokoshnik by Chaumet, early 20th century
Aren't they lovely?  I will be ever-vigilant until I find the perfect one.  In the meantime, I will have to content myself with other beautiful sparkles.

Oh, and a little further proof that Anastasia was a formative film: the titular character and the Dowager Empress in their kokoshnik tiaras.



One is a fringe and one is the more rounded style--my two favorites. Hmm.

Monday, May 28, 2012

A Lemony Centennial

My sister needed something for her bake sale this weekend and I volunteered to help her, which ended up leading on a jump through 100 years of cookbooks to accomplish two projects at once.  Yum! (Unfortunately, in the process of baking and dancing and celebrating I forgot to take a single picture...but the treats were such a hit I thought it was worth sharing the recipe anyway.)

the modern kitchen from "Choice and Care of Utensils," 1912

When she listed all the goodies already claimed, I suggested lemon bars as her/my contribution to the spread; I figured it would be easy to double the batch and bring the rest for the staff and volunteers at the museum.  Then I thought: Why not investigate some 1912 cookbooks and bake something period?

I need to learn how to shorten my adventures, not complicate them, I know.

I ended up on a fun interactive website which presented cooking as a timeline, and links to instructive texts for each point.  The twentieth century had some great selections, including a cooking/storybook for children and the original Jell-O brand recipe book, which I highly recommend taking a peak at.

I settled on the 1912 edition of The Dromedary Cookbook, which you can read for yourself here.


The recipe I used is for a "Lemon Cocoanut [sic] Pie" and is essentially a lemon meringue pie with shredded coconut in the lemon filling.  As the recipe did not include a particular crust, I used the Joy of Cooking* shortbread crust I used for my sister's lemon bars.  The original recipe is a cooked milk- and cornstarch- based filling, but in order to make things easier I used the egg- and flour- based recipe for the lemon bars, but with the additional seasonings. (I know, I know, cheating...)
After the batch was ready I poured out the lemon bars and folded in the shredded coconut before adding to the pre-baked shortbread crust.

pie trick: I always bake 1-crust pies in a tart pan.  The crust always comes out perfectly crinkled!


Overall, this recipe was super easy, and while not exactly the 1912 formula, the flavors are the same and it was perfect for the event.  Plus, my sister had very chic 2012 lemon squares for her bake sale.

Centennial Lemon Coconut Pie (or bars!), adapted from the Dromedary Cookbook and Joy of Baking
for the crust:
1 c. butter (2 sticks)
1/2 c. powdered (confectioner's) sugar
2 c. all-purpose whole wheat flour (white flour would work too)
1/4 tsp. salt
2 tsp. (or to taste) orange or lemon peel

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cream butter and sugar until smooth.  add dry ingredients until just together, but still crumbly.  press into pie or tart pan and bake for about 18 minutes, until edges are just browned. Remove from oven and let cool while making filling, but don't turn off the oven!

for the filling:
Depending on the size of your pan and how full you like your pies, this may need to be adjusted. I originally doubled this but ended up with extra so I'm halving it here.

1 c. granulated sugar
2 whole eggs
about 1/3 c. lemon juice (real lemons are always better than bottled juice!)
1 7 oz. bag of shredded coconut (or less, if you want to limit the coconut flavor.  The original recipe called for 2 c., which is around the amount in the bag)
2 tbs. all-purpose whole wheat (or white) flour

Beat sugar and eggs until light in color and fluffy.  Add the lemon juice and mix fully before folding in the flour.  When the flour is fully incorporated fold in the coconut and scoop into cooling pie crust.  Return to oven (still 350 F) for another 18 min or so, until crust has formed on top and the edges of the filling have started to brown.  At this point the filling should be set but still jiggly.  Let cool completely (overnight is best) before cutting.


*The Joy of Cooking was first published privately in 1931 before being picked up for national distribution in 1936.  Even my modern sources are vintage...

Friday, May 25, 2012

Baz Luhrmann Great Gatsby Trailer

I've had an eventful week (more on that later), which has slowed down my reading somewhat.
But don't worry, I'm still prepping for a summer of projects and working my way through Fitzgerald! I have a couple of posts on the author's life and letters to finish (along with my re-reading of Tender is the Night) but in the meantime the first trailer for the new Great Gatsby film has been released!


What do you think? I've watched it a couple of times and while the visuals are really interesting, I'm still having trouble getting behind the music.  Not because it's modern--that's a typical Luhrmann trope--but because it's so slow.  I also thought it was interesting that the narration at the opening is not actually from Gatsby but from a later piece by Fitzgerald.  That could be good, as it might signify a lot of reading and research from Luhrmann/the writers.  I guess we'll see at Christmas...