I Hate Regency, or, Ball Gown Progress

Ok guys, I've got my ranty pants on...

I had this great idea.


via GIPHY

After acquiring some fantastic new stays that are super comfy and keep all the things where they're supposed to go, I thought it would be nice to have some Regency gowns that also fit me well to go over them. A great idea? A great idea!


via GIPHY

So as I started working on a new Regency ballgown for an 1817 event I'm attending in a couple of weeks, I was careful to start from the beginning. I re-drafted the bodice pattern up from Patterns of Fashion (which I've used previously and liked), made a mock-up, fit it, made a second mock-up to be sure, and then started sewing my dress. And somehow, even with all of that, I've ended up re-cutting the shoulder bands twice, unpicking and re-stitching the back three times, and just generally had basically nothing go according to plan.

"You'll have such a solid Regency bodice pattern at the end of this, though," I keep reminding myself. But still. Why is getting Regency to fit so much harder than any. other. period?


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So with some help from The Boy, I got into stays and tried the sucker on again tonight, re-did the shoulder bands again, and finally got something that fits. Hooray! But the angle doesn't match my stays, and they show at the back. Boo!

back problems :/ (the puckers are from pins in the interior)

For the ball, I'm just going to piece in a curved bit of silk to fill in the gap and cover my stays-then I can trace a new shoulder strap pattern piece that incorporates a wider back bit after the ball, when I'm not pressed for time. Because tomorrow sleeves need to go on! At least the fabric is lovely (icy gray-blue silk with embroidered white net over top), so I will look somewhat elegant regardless.

Bah humbug.

the bodice with straps pinned in place-at least my stays are fully covered in front! sleeves tomorrow.

the wretched thing in full.

I know that I'll be happy to have something that fits well in the end, and since I'm carefully keeping the pattern up to date with changes, I'll also have a pattern that fits well to make future dresses. Worth it--even if I'm frustrated now. So I'm taking a break, cuddling with the cat, and ranting on the internet. By tomorrow evening hopefully I'll feel better, and can knock out sleeves without fuss. But tonight...tonight I'm watching Austenland and moping.


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Liebster Blog Award!

I'm trying to have 2017 be a year of cleansing, and that means cleaning out my drafts folder too! Cassidy, fabulous author of A Most Beguiling Accomplishment, nominated me for a Liebster Award back in June. If you're unfamiliar with the rules, each nominee is asked to answer their nominator's interview questions, nominate 11 bloggers with less than 200 followers for the award, and offer interview questions for them to answer, should they choose to accept the mission. Cassidy has some great questions, and I've been working on answers!

let the interview begin!

What is the history mystery (including but not limited to historical fashion) that you would most like to solve?
What is the period or area of historical dress that you first began to concentrate on?
I don't do much of it anymore (so many periods! so little time!), but my first period was the 1860s (American Civil War). In middle and high school I was in a group of living history volunteers in the greater Boston area that researched, constructed, and performed local programs. One of our main periods was the 1860s, and the clothes really spoke to me. I started with day wear, and then evening dresses when a friend introduced me to vintage dance. 

Do you belong to a costuming or reenacting group?
I do! If you'd like to experience a social evening in your favorite period, get into the past for the weekend, or just learn some really fun dancing, you should check out the Commonwealth Vintage Dancers. Most of the outfits and outings I post about involve CVD or CVD friends. The group is a non-profit organization devoted to the study and reconstruction of period dances, including performances and participatory events where we teach. 
I am lucky enough to live in an area with many vintage-themed groups, so I have my pick of events from the Greater Boston Vintage Society and Tweed Outing Club. I have also attended World War II events as a member of the Big Red One Living History Organization, and hope to get involved with the 1st WAC Separate Battalion soon!

What is an area that you fancy studying or sewing that you do not currently do?
 I'd also love to try out a bustle ensemble sometime! But as I don't attend any events in that era, it's not been a high-priority project. There are also some 1950s dresses on my wish list, but somehow I never get to them. Maybe this year... :)

costume sketch by Edith Head for Rosemary Clooney in White Christmas: inspiration for a 50s project that's been on my list for years!

Is there a particular technique that you'd like to learn, but haven't had the time or a project to do it in?
I would love to learn more about tailoring! There are a couple of 1910s suits on my wish list, but I don't feel like I know enough about tailoring to hit that yet. I think if I were less intimidated I might move those projects up the list. One is a suit inspired by a photograph from the family archives, so I really want to do it justice.

What would you make if time and budget (and event) were of no concern?
Something heavily embroidered, probably Regency but maybe 1890s? I used to do 19th century embroidery to moderate my stress in college--mostly little samplers and things but I did do one Regency ball gown! Now I just never feel like I want to commit to the time and fore-planning a project like that would take, but I'd love to someday.

Is there a particular museum exhibition you'd like to go back in time or travel across the world to see?
I love museum exhibitions, and so this was a hard question! I was tied on two. First, I think I would pick the Paris Salon of 1877, in which May Alcott's still life was displayed. After years researching and playing May, I would love the chance to attend this moment, which was one of her most public successes. Second, how cool would it be to attend the Great Exhibition of 1851?! It would be an incredible opportunity to see a moment where science, industry, innovation, and fashion all collided during a turning point of the industrial revolution.

still life by May Alcott, courtesy of LMAMA

What's your favorite reference book or fashion history text?
I have two again: for actual support with construction, the first place I look is always Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion. Even just seeing the pattern pieces can help me determine if I'm aiming for the right shapes. For inspiration, I love 19th Century in Detail from the V&A. It's one of my favorite sources for trim, cool fabrics, and interior shots.
I'm also a huge fan of museum catalogs-either as a way to take home exhibits I really loved, or to get a glimpse of exhibits I couldn't see. Impressionism and Fashion from the Metropolitan Museum of Art is a great one.

If you could design your perfect historical reenactment event, what would it be like and where?
ooooh, great question! I would love to organize a series of events that focus on the diversity we usually don't see represented-a variety of people representing different classes, in different jobs, of different races...basically, what somewhere like Boston would have "actually" looked like. There are some people doing great work to this end already, so I hope to attend some of their events! 
I'd also love to flip the traditional timeline event (which typically includes military units) on its head and do a women's history timeline that invites living history groups and military units (like WWII WAVEs and WACs) that are primarily focused on (and lead by) women.

What motivates you in your historical recreation and/or public education?
I've always loved history, and the more I learn about where we've gone before (especially regarding technology and cultural trends), the more I recognize the cyclical nature of our experiences. I want to share that recognition with others, in hopes that we can all learn from the past. Also...it's fun! Getting to learn through experience while wearing great clothes is hard to beat :)

Do you like reading historical and/or classic fiction? (For the latter, I include any old books, whether or not they're critically esteemed.)
I don't read much historical fiction anymore, although I used to quite a bit. I do still read a lot of classic fiction. Although to be honest, as I'm currently in grad school I don't read much at all. In between semesters I marathon through books before I have to start homework again! This break I re-read Persuasion, and went on a women in STEM non-fiction kick with Rise of the Rocket Girls and Hidden Figures. 

a throwback-reading War and Peace in a tiara...as you do.

I am cheating slightly and posting fewer than 11 nominees, because it turns out that most of the blogs I read have more than 200 followers! So here they are:

Our Girl History-I love reading Eliza's posts on working at a historical sight, and her thoughts on the role of women as both historical voices we need to interpret and as interpreters dealing with the public. 

Ballgown In a Backpack-Emma just started blogging, but so far her posts have been entertaining and interesting! I look forward to seeing what else she pulls out of the bag. Puns!

Fishy Fashion and Maritime Modes-This is a topic I don't know anything about, and it's interesting to see how material culture is re-created and examined...as well as how modern people respond!

The Laced Angel-ok, this one is slightly out of the follower limit, but I get some much hair inspiration from here that I couldn't leave it off!

The Quintessential Clothes Pen- Quinn does such a good job documenting her sewing process and construction! Plus, her insides are as neat as her outsides :)

Here are my questions for you all, should you choose to participate:
1. How did you start making historical garments?
2. What is your favorite part of blogging?
3. Describe a time you struggled with a historical project. What did you learn from the experience?
4. If money and restoration were no object, what piece of historical technology would you love to try using? 
5. Do you watch or listen to anything while you sew? If so, what is your favorite background?

A Note of Thanks

It is customary at the turn of the year to review sewing accomplishments and set goals for the upcoming year. This year, I'm not going to set any new goals because really, I just started following by 2015 goal to take my time and not skip steps of projects...and it's going well! So I'm going to work on keeping that up, rather than making new goals.

I'm also not going to do my standard month-by-month sewing review, because honestly, I didn't make that much this year. I made a few big projects well, and I'm happy with that. Instead, here is a review of my top five adventures!

5.

Gathering this fall for an 1860s weekend, I got to focus on my photography--it was a stressful Fall, but a fun interlude!

4.

The Boy came along for a summer 1920s adventure! He won't be making regular blog appearances, but sometimes it's fun to have him join me in the crazy for a bit :)

3.

I participated in the Historical Sew Monthly for the first time! I didn't actually blog about many of my entries, but it was a blast to be part of the HSM community and to see everyone's projects.

2.

My Starfleet crew is fierce, brilliant, and coming for you. I love that our crew grows every year!

1.

An adventure of palatial proportions (heh...sorry...) to Versailles--this isn't top of the list for its location, but because it was a chance to do something really insane with some of my favorite people. And to make new friends along the way!

I'm grateful for a year full of new and old friends, new and old places, and willing photography subjects. I started off 2017 with a meeting of awesome historically-minded women, and I hope that is the first of many! I hope all of you have things to make you feel optimistic about the coming year, even when the outlook is bleak. I look forward to sharing more adventures with you. Here's to a new year!

Buyer's Guilt

For the last 6 months my sewing has been divided into two categories: 18th century sewing, and post-France sewing. Now that I find myself with a complete francaise, I can finally turn my attention to all the other projects I've been putting off--and I'm finding myself excited to make new things!

I'm not rushing into anything, as work has been in a crunch and my summer class just started, but I did start a list to determine where I stood on supplies for each project.  Some of them are "stash busters" (a Regency pelisse I bought fabric for years ago), which is great, and others came about because I happened to find the perfect fabric, and there are also a few that I don't have fabric for (yet).

this early 19th century portrait by Alexandre-Jean Dubois-Drahonet is the inspiration for one such upcoming project

But one thing kept popping up as I went through my wishlist: I need new underwear. This is not a new problem, but it's certainly an unavoidable one. I wear my clothes hard--I re-wear, I set up furniture, I carry trays, I wash dishes, I tramp on boats, through fields, I dance every dance at the ball. Beyond underpinnings being the key to a good fit, I really need the support and security that solid corsets (and other foundation garments) provide. The stopgap measures I took the last time I went through this have now worn out, and I have finally faced the facts that I need new, well-made, well-fitted underpinnings that will last a while (hopefully until I finish grad school!).

corset pattern patent, 1868 (via)

Of course, the real problem here is that I really don't like making corsets. I find it tedious, and frustrating, and disappointing. The last two there would probably be solved by practice, as I'd get better at it, but the first one means I'm not motivated enough to get over the hurtle and I go through the same cycle of misery every time I need a new one. So then I put off making a new one, until it becomes so desperate I can't make the part I do actually enjoy (the dresses) because I can't fit bodices without a corset. 

lacing stays (from The Progress of the Toilette), 1810 (via)

And so I found myself contemplating this cycle of dread and ill-fitted cleavage when I read Kitty Calash's post about what the clothes she makes are worth. Her point is that with labor factored in as a cost (she uses $25/hour), these items are incredibly expensive and should be treated and worn with respect. I don't disagree, but it also got me thinking about my current underpinnings predicament. What are good underpinnings worth to me? I have so little hours I can use to sew, and making corsets so I can make new dresses would eat most of my sewing time for the summer. Is it worth it to me? What would not having to spend the time (and potentially end up with a better-fitting, better-made final product) be worth to me?

I am rather amused by this advertisement for the "L.R. Corset"!

  I think, in the end, it's worth a great deal to me. Corsets (and other underpinnings like cage crinolines) could be purchased from dry goods stores in the second half of the 19th century, so it isn't even entirely wrong to buy my undergarments. In fact, the Worcester Corset Company began as the Worcester Skirt Company in Worcester, MA, in 1861 making cage crinolines (it shifted to corsets sometime before 1872). Buying new corsets will ensure I have lasting undergarments that will get me through the next couple of years of events, provide a foundation for the new dresses on my wish list, and keep me from spending the summer in a miserable cycle of tedium and anger. 

I still feel guilty about it--it feels like cheating--but I've talking myself into it. Not making this round of corsets is ok. Sometimes alleviating the misery is worth a lot more than being able to stubbornly say I made everything myself.

another inspiration image for an upcoming project: tea gown, 1858-62 (The Met)

On to new clothes!

#TBT: My First Francaise Attempt

If you've been here before, you're already aware that I've been diving into my first 18th century ensemble with a low-key, no deadline project to figure things out. Or, rather, we've all embraced the crazy and I'm building a robe a la francaise from the undergarments out for my first time at the Palace of Versailles.

I've been practicing my minuet! (still from Coppola's Marie Antoinette)

Mostly this is my first real foray into the 18th century, but I went through a serious Marie Antoinette phase in high school after watching Sophia Coppola's Marie Antoinette movie. I read both Fraser's Marie Antoinette: The Journey (the biography that inspired the movie) and Weber's Queen of Fashion, and decided to make my own. It was a bit of a mess. There are a lot of reasons why, but at the time it didn't really matter, because I was frustrated and didn't know enough to problem-solve. The dress traveled with me to college, was worn in various pieces with various safety-pin alterations, and stayed in the collection.

high school goals: Duchess Polignac (from the movie)

At the end of my sophomore year of college, I attended a Dances of Vice event with my friend themed "the enchanted menagerie." Back in the day, DoV events were much more 18th century-leaning, with massive theatrical wigs on very tall, fabulously-dressed New Yorkers...so it was the perfect time to revive the battered francaise. I made a stomacher out of a butterfly brocade remnant, and used the remaining square as a petticoat (but it was just pinned to the panniers, because I couldn't find the matching petticoat I'd originally made). All of the butterflies on the stomacher and petticoat-thing were rhinestoned, many sitting in traffic on the way to NY (don't worry, I wasn't driving!). My friend was already blogging, but I wasn't yet, and so these pictures have never seen the light of day.

my sewing may have progressed but my flair for the dramatic hasn't changed

Have a giggle at my expense (oh man, I've come a long way on a lot of fronts since then), and enjoy!

it's hard to see the rhinestones in the event pictures, but here s an in-progress snap of the stomacher

rhinestoning in traffic!

columns are always good for posing

Moving Forward to Go Backward: On to 2016 and the 18th Century!

Now is the time when I would typically write a "year in review" post, but with grad school and my crazy life I didn't actually make many projects this year. I'm ok with that, though--because when I did sew, I was able to update/improve some outfits I really love, get outside of my comfort zone, and make some really ridiculous projects--some of which I haven't even managed to blog yet!


I was also lucky to do my first photo shoot (as the photographer), get some good practice in with my petzval plates, put my 1940s Graphlex mod through its paces, and take some portraits I'm really proud of.

So as I start to plan for 2016, I'm feeling grateful for skill-expanding craft lessons, wonderful adventures, and fabulous friends.

Salem in the snow during our record-breaking winter

a deserted corner of a very cool speakeasy in Las Vegas

the town square of Tartu, Estonia, shot through a life-sized National Geographic frame as part of a national tourism project  

sunset on the National Mall, from a trip to DC in April

being silly, because we are great at that!

playing roulette at our Casino Royale party

in Star Trek (original series) uniforms

And I've got quite a year to look forward to!

In particular, my fabulous friends and I are heading off to France this spring to attend an 18th century ball at the Palace of Versailles. I'm immensely excited, but also feeling nervous about sewing a new period with such high stakes. So with a few exceptions as things come up, I'll be spending the next five months making a robe a la francaise from the inside out, starting with a chemise and stays! (Don't worry--I'll still sneak in your regularly scheduled programming of tartan history, event photos, and other research.)

I've started a Pinterest board for the project, which includes inspiration for clothing and accessories. Naturally, some of my favorites are plaid...

silk plaid robe a la francaise, 1760-90 (Met)

c.1765 (LACMA)

 c.1765 (Whitaker)

c.1752 (Mussee Mode)

...but my francaise will be a lovely dusky purple silk taffeta. Mostly because I got a really great deal on fabric, but also a little bit because no matter how much historical clothing research I do, there will still always be a part of me that is totally in love with the Sofia Coppola's candy-colored Marie Antoinette movie.

Actually, after reading Caroline Weber's biography Queen of Fashion, and watching this movie, I attempted a robe a la francaise in high school. I used the very costumey Simplicty pattern, and it was a huge mess...but I've never lost my appreciation for how incredibly elegant they are. So with several years of sewing under my belt, a lot more research, and some helpful friends, I'm heading back to the 18th century.

purple robe a la francaise, c.1775, Colonial Williamsburg (via)

And to help keep myself on task (and take advantage of a wealth of knowledge), I'm also jumping into the Historical Sew Monthly for 2016. I probably won't have something complete for every challenge, but I think it will help me stay motivated. So here's to a new year!

Lessons and Experiments: 2014 in Review

I did my first retrospective post last year, and found that it was an incredibly helpful way to look at how much I'd accomplished (and also how poorly I often manage my time). This year, I wanted to do something similar. As I started to dig through my posts, I realized I had some firsts this year! A new time period (WWII), some new photography techniques (my petzval lens), and a new series of ongoing research posts (my image in context series). There was a ton of research, thousands of photos, and a heap of adventures. That said, there wasn't quite as much sewing! I'm going to take that as a sign that I tried to achieve my new year's resolution not to undertake projects at the very last minute...or at least, not quite as often.

So without further ado, a brief review of 2014!

January

I make a 1920s evening dress for our performance at Arisia

February

I use the same shot fabric for a new Regency ballgown...

...and start my photography research post series

March

Rather than rush a new dress, I fix the fit on my pink plaid 1860s gown from last year

April

I play with different views for photographing events

May

I work with tulle for the first time and make a 1950s party dress

June

I pull and all-nighter (whoops) to whip up a 1910s ballgown for a 1914 performance,

take my first shot at battle photography for a WWII reenactment,

build my first camera mod,

and make an evening bodice for my printed cotton 1860s dress

(whew! June was apparently pretty crazy!)

July

I re-drape the bodice for my 1910s ballgown,

and do my first real photography outing with the petzval

August

I make a new white linen 1920s dress for picnicking

September

We squeeze in a last picnic on Labor Day (and I use it to do some more petzval work),

and I begin the Mother/Daughter Dress Project with my first attempt at plaid matching! (both bodices are constructed)

October

Undergarments elude me, but I bake up a storm

November

I mostly complete the Mother/Daughter Dress Project (with help from Mom!) over Thanksgiving: both skirts and underskirts are completed, and the bodices are wearable

I shoot our suffrage rally for the Plymouth Thanksgiving celebration, aiming to take portraits that capture the feel of the event (you can decide how well I did in my upcoming post on this!),

and disassemble my hobble skirt to make a new skirt I can picket in, and construct a new overskirt for the ensemble

December

I finally complete--and wear!--my dress for the Mother/Daughter Dress Project by finishing my bodice

It turns out 2014 had more than I expected, and I was lucky enough to attend some really wonderful events. As I went through my previous blog posts to put together this retrospective, I noticed a couple of things: for every last-minute project I made this year (or revisited from last year), I ended up doing alterations after the first wearing to fix the mistakes I'd made while rushing through the project, and while I did a lot of research (primarily on female photographers), I never posted it. So even though I made fewer things, I'm happy with my resolution to sew slower. Hopefully I can keep it up in the new year! (And get those research posts up!)

I also have a couple of other resolutions to add to the list: I'd like to make some of the projects I have fabric for, that have been sitting in my stash for years at this point. I'd also like to work on doing some photo shoots outside of events I'm already attending--take an afternoon, get dressed up, and just take photos. It's not normally what I do with my clothes (I mostly sew specifically for events), but I think it would be hugely helpful to practice actually taking pictures.

That second resolution I could use some help with: if you're in the Boston area and you're up for a picture-taking afternoon (historical or otherwise), let me know!

Best wishes for the start of 2015!