Saturday, September 13, 2014

Matching Plaid

Pattern matching is a type of witchcraft I am only beginning to learn.

See how the tartan continues all the way across the bodice, even with all the darts and curved seams? (Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1873-1876)
I'm starting a new plaid dress (but more on that soon!), and so I've been taking some time to read up on pattern matching and working with plaids in an effort to do a better job of making my bodice look, well, matched. But I've also been revisiting my historical plaids Pinterest board, and I noticed something: while there are some beautiful examples of well-matched plaid, there are also a lot of examples of plaid that isn't lined up across seams.

They range from close-but-not-quite...

cotton bodice, 1860s
wrapper, late 1860s
silk ballgown, 1812
to not-even-trying.

bodice, late 1870s
Does it matter? Not really. All of these pieces are lovely. But it's a nice reminder that extant garments aren't always "perfect," and mine don't need to be either. That said, I'm still planning on trying my best to match the plaid on my bodice pieces!

a preview!

Sunday, September 7, 2014

A Quiet End to Summer

For the first time in possibly the last six years I didn't have to move on September 1st, which seemed like an open invitation to have a picnic! A couple of friends and I headed to the Boston Public Garden for a really low-key, relaxing last hurrah before fall. It was lovely, and nice to see friends I haven't gotten to see in a while, since August has been so busy.

We ate, had a ukulele sing-a-long, and watched the swan boats. I took the opportunity to play with my Petzval lens, which led to some great pictures and some...not so great ones. As soon as my arm gets tired, I have a hard time holding the lens steady enough for a clear shot. Something to build towards! In the meantime, it was a perfect way to end a very busy summer: a little bit of calm before my crazy work schedule picks up later this month.

A ukulele serenade as the swan boats go around (this is what I meant by blurry pictures...)
 To set the tone, here is a 1920s ukulele song about a girl playing the ukulele--I couldn't resist!



 

I love the Boston Public Garden...hanging out there never gets dull. It's like an impressionist painting come to life.




A quick lesson!





swan boats!

The beauty of the post-tourist season summer is that the Make Way for Ducklings statues are actually empty enough to be photographed!


I'm sad summer activities are coming to an end, but there are so many exciting things coming up during the colder months. If you're in the Boston area, please join me!

Monday, September 1, 2014

Expedition to the Crane Estate

Last year we had so much fun at the Roaring '20s Lawn Party at the Crane Estate in Ipswich that we had some pretty grand plans for how to make this year twice as good. Unfortunately, there was some bad weather and the event had to move to the rain date, so a bunch of friends couldn't go (I almost didn't make it!), and our plans sort of fell through. I had started a new white linen dress for the event, which I then abandoned when I thought I couldn't go.

A bit blurry, but hey look! I scaled a wall! Quinn was a great sport about attempting to manage the Petzval lens
When it turned out I was able to make the last bit after all, I decided to wear the dress after all. It still needs sleeves, so expect a more dress-centric post when I finally get around to that. In the meantime, Quinn and I decided to have fun exploring the Crane Estate despite the overcast day! 

the estate is at the top of a hill, with the ocean below--can you see it beyond the trees behind me?

The steps leading from the sports lawn down to another garden

Despite the date change and the overcast weather, the event attendees were colorful and cheerful

Dishes really help make a picnic feel special--this is my picnic china (from Savers, so I don't mind if it breaks!). We also celebrated a birthday and munched on yummy cucumber sandwiches.

Another Petzval portrait--I ended up having to switch to my kit lens for exploring, because the Petzval is just too heavy and not stable enough for adventuring, but I got a few good shots in before that.

reading Zelda Fitzgerald





a quiet path on the wooded area of the hillside

Sunday, August 3, 2014

Portraits from George's Island

A couple of weeks ago, the Commonwealth Vintage Dancers had the opportunity to perform again in Fort Warren, the Civil War fort on George's Island. It was a ton of fun, and a great opportunity to wear the pretty printed cotton day dresses we all made for the same event last summer.

It's usually not acceptable to take photos at a performance like this (at least during the performance), so I decided not to try and shoot during the event at all. Instead, I took photos at the end of the day when we were all picnicking before catching a ferry back to Boston. Last summer, I contributed to a Kickstarter campaign to reproduce an 1840s portrait lens designed by Joseph Petzval, but modified to work on modern DSLR cameras. I've discussed the original lens design in a previous post, but I wanted to share some of the images I took with my modern one!


exploring Fort Warren




getting prepped before the performance



one of the cool things about the lens is that since the f-stop must be changed by sliding a plate into the barrel, the modern lens came with a couple of neat "specialty f-stops." The star plate turns direct points of light into stars--see them in the background?
I am really pleased with these images, and I'm excited to use the lens again when shooting events! It's really interesting, though, that while these have a period look to them from the particular curvature of the glass and the way it flattens the depth of field, the overall image quality (because it's digital and not a wet-plate photo) is pretty noticeable. All the pieces are important to how things look!

For more information about my modern Petzval lens by Lomography, you can check out the lens website.

Wednesday, July 30, 2014

Depth of Field: Lens Technology in the Mid-19th Century

Wet-collodion processing led to faster shooting and much more reproducible images, but another important component of the evolution of photography was the camera itself. Modern photographers have a huge range of lenses to choose from, with a diverse assortment of capabilities. There is a deliberate choice about which lens to use for a particular shot to get a particular image; the reflection of those choices are in some ways a reflection of the photographer--what they wanted to show, their aesthetic preferences, their point of view. In the 19th century, lenses weren't interchangeable in the same way, and photographic techniques developed in different ways as lens technology changed.

Although photographic processes existed fairly early in the 19th century, the first convertible lens was not produced until about 1840. This lens, commissions via a design contest by the French society for the advancement of the industry (Société d'Encouragements pour l'Industrie Nationale), was designed by Charles Chevalier and called the "l'Objectif double à verres combinés." The lens was comprised of two curved glass disks inside a metal barrel, and by changing part of the barrel (and therefore swapping out one of the glass disks), the photographer could alter the focal length to change between a lens best for wide shots (landscape) and singular focus (portrait). 


an add for Chevalier's lens (shown in both focal lengths)


View of the Seine, Paris, 1843, Charles Chevalier (and presumable shot with his lens)
While the lens was revolutionary, its landscape configuration was by far stronger; the portrait length suffered from an overall lack of sharpness, leaving room for improvement.

Although submitted too late for consideration in the Societe's contest, another lens designed at the same time provided a much clearer portrait image. Designed by Joseph Petzval, a mathematics professor at the University of Vienna, the Petzval lens used complex mathematical equations applied to the spacing and curvature of the glass disks within the barrel to produce the fasts reflection of a flat field possible. The lens was quite sharp in the central focal point of the image and provided a much better resolution than Chevalier's lens.

diagram of Petzval's design
The fault of the large curvature of the glass was that Petzval's lens had a narrow area of focus, and the rest of the image featured blurring/vignetting. While that made it less ideal for landscapes, the lens was well liked for portraits (its intended purpose), and the general features of the design quickly became popular, resulting in many many copies. Thousands of these lenses were produced and sold, which helps to explain why the lens's distinct image features are so prevalent in 19th century photographs. The narrow depth of field and small focal area also change the process of setting up a shot--rather than thinking about a scene or composition of multiple components, photographers were isolating one moment or face or object of particular interest and loosing all the surrounding context. While a different type of deliberate image creation than choosing the lens, I think it is very much a window into how photographers captured to world.

Soldier, Crimea, 1850s
Soldier, crimea, c.1855
soldiers at camp, c.1861-65 (note how only one face is in focus)
Norwegian women, date unknown

In previous posts in this series, I've discussed how images contribute to our understanding of the past, and the way evolving image-processing technology allowed photographers to leave the studio and bring the world home. If this was interesting, check them out!

Sources:

http://www.oldphotographiclenses.com/about_the_book.html
http://antiquecameras.net/buron.html
http://microsites.lomography.com/petzval-lens/

Sunday, July 27, 2014

Industry and Exploration: Travel and War in the Mid-19th Century

This winter I started posting about photography and how it relates to understanding/portraying history, because this is a topic I find particularly interesting. My first post was an introduction to 19th century photographic processes and the ways in which they were used. Today I'm continuing that theme, but we're adding some new inventions to the mix!

At the same time the daguerreotype was probably the most popular form of photographic development, a different process was also making its way onto the scene. Invented by Frederick Scott Archer, the "wet-collodion" process in the late 1840s. Known as wet-plate photography, the wet-collodion process produced a clear, noiseless image with a much shorter required exposure time than any of the currently popular processes. Wet-plate images could also be copied an infinite number of times from a single negative. This made producing images for publication a possibility, and the shorter exposure time made wet-collodion the best option for candids and outdoor shots. 

"Head of the Harbor," Balaclava, Russia c.1855 by Roger Fenton
 The downside of the wet-collodion process was that it required the image to be developed almost immediately (i.e., while the exposure plate was still wet), or the integrity of the image would be greatly compromised. As a result, in order to shoot wet-plate photographs, photographers needed to travel with a portable dark room.

Salted paper print showing John with all the apparatus needed to take a collodion negative
photographer with his hand-made development tent for wet-collodion processing, c.1850s, via The JDL site
Still, wet-plate photography helped to start the "golden age of travel photography" [1] in the second half of the 19th century. These images gave everyday people, who could not afford to travel across the globe, a window into distant corners of the world.
Albumen Photograph Incredible Italy Pompei Excavations 1860s ...
Pompeii, via the Princeton archives

Western wall, Jerusalem, c. mid-19th century, by Francis Frith. (V&A collection)
The precision Watkins shot in is exquisite for the 1860s. Photo: Courtesy of CarletonWatkins.org
Yosemite, American West, 1865, by Carleton Watkins (LoC)

tomb near Shanghai, c.1869-98, via The Daily Mail
Faster, reproducible images were also perfect for another purpose: capturing the realities of war. Roger Fenton, who traveled to Russia in the 1850s, used wet-collodion processing and a specially-designed mobile darkroom to photograph the Crimean War. His images are a mix of fascinating and exotic uniforms, the generic chores of camp life, and the grim, stark realities of battle casualties. For the first time, people at home in England saw glimpses of battle, in shockingly realistic candid photographs from the field.

Wounded Zouave & Vivandiere
Wounded zouave with vivandiere, 1855 (Royal Collection Trust)
These images of battles and peoples in distant places were certainly new and stark and fascinating, but they had a sort of space guaranteed by the utter otherness of their subjects. In contrast, the photographs taken during the American Civil War were both honest in their portrayal of battle, but also brutal in their closeness.

Before the war, Mathew Brady had a photography studio in New York, and in the late 1850s was working with his partner Alexander Gardner to specialize in life-size portraits using enlargement techniques that were a cutting edge area of wet-plate photography. "Brady saw himself as a pictorial historian," and so when war broke out on home soil, Brady undertook to document it.

company of 6th ME infantry after the Battle of Fredricksburg, 1862, by Mathew Brady (National Archives)

Brady took--and exhibited at his gallery--graphic images of the war's front lines. As the war grew, so did Brady's coverage: at times he had up to 20 photographers in the field. The production of clear images, taken quickly with "the never-failing tube," that were reproducible for dissemination among the American public was a direct result of Brady's use of the wet-collodion process.

Chaplain conducting mass for the 69th New York State Militia encamped at Fort Corcoran, DC, 1861
casualties from the Battle of Antietam
Camp Northumberland, c.1860-65
Sources:

[1] Global Views, 19th century travel photography in the Princeton Archives
[2] Lewinski, Jorge (1986). The Camera At War: War Photography for 1848 to the Present Day