I have been making serious francaise progress! Or rather, I have made so much progress on everything I need to go under
my francaise that I can actually start the dress itself. Exciting and terrifying!
As I've mentioned previously, I'm mixing period hand sewing techniques and machine sewing to accomplish a decently accurate ensemble in a short amount of time. I'm learning a lot, and I look forward to making more 18th century garments in the future!
First, my stays can now go onto my body and be worn, which is awesome because it means I can start making the things that need to be fit over my stays. I'm reasonably happy with the fit, and as this is my first foray into stay-making I will accept that as a win. This week I went to my friend's house so she could lace me in and help with fitting my dress lining. She also kindly took a bunch of pictures of my making ridiculous faces in my various layers, so that I could post. Pardon the grainy cell phone quality!
|stays! I haven't fully cut my tabs yet, but otherwise these are in good shape (I'm also wearing the new 18th century chemise that you haven't seen yet)|
Since my last stays post
, I've set the lining into the stays and added eyelets. All that's left is to bind them, which I will start this weekend and continue as a handwork project whenever I'm not home and can't sew big things.
|my biggest concession to modernity was to use grommets instead of hand-sewing eyelets. so much faster, which was a necessity here!|
|and from the back. these can probably be laced slightly tighter, but I'd just eaten my weight in mozzarella sticks so we went a little easy :)|
I used The Dreamstress's excellent pannier tutorial
for my pocket hoops. They were super easy and I quite like the shape! I ran out of twill tape, so these need a couple more ties (including a waistband--at the moment there's a temporary polka-dotted hairband in there that needs to come out...), but are otherwise done. I again used heavy-duty plastic zip ties for boning. I had them on hand, but also they are very lightweight which will help in packing for the flight.
|I did say silly faces...|
While I do really like the shape of these panniers, they are a little too practical for Versailles. So I made double under petticoats!
Both are constructed in the same manner, based on Katherine's tutorial
. I was sneaky and used the selvage edge of the cotton for the bottom of each petticoat, so that I didn't have to hem anything. The white petticoat is a little narrower (about 55 inches across), while the rust-colored one is fuller.
|I think I was explaining to my friend that there are pockets|
This helps with the fluffiness of my silhouette in general, but is also because I plan to wear the colored petticoat as a visible/outer layer with a someday printed gown. I've had the fabric in my stash for years, but the hurdle of starting a new century kept me from every breaking it out. Now that I've jumped on board, this will actually get made!
|my petticoat fabric with the stash printed cotton for a robe a l'anglaise (someday...)|
So far, I'm pretty happy with everything. I've also cut and assembled my visible silk petticoat, but am waiting to pleat it onto a waistband until I attach the trim. I used a slightly different assembly method for that one, and I'm waiting with somewhat baited breath to try it on and see if that was a good idea or not.
I've also done a mockup of the dress lining, adjusted the pattern, and cut it out. Hopefully this weekend I can assemble the lining for real, and be ready to start the dress next week.
|from the back|
It feels like I'm both making tons of progress and none at all, ha.
Still To Do:staysvisible petticoatfrancaise gownpaint shoeshair